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In regards to products that aid stability to install on your truck / tow vehicle.
I did quite a bit of research on the different kinds of helper springs and air bags etc.
I ended up buying and installing a set of Super Springs. Very easy to install even on the dually, I did not have to remove the wheels. it is a one person job!
What a huge difference! These reduced sway and porpoising on my F-350 dually with a large slide in camper beyond my expectations!
If you have a pull behind or fifth wheel, I believe this will help as well.

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Thanks for the tip Captain Mike. I hear lots of people say that swaying is a problem when pulling a rig.
I have a question for you captain mike, we are new at rving and we have a 29' travel trailer. what do different springs on my truck have to do with the swaying of the trailer?
mort
mort and joyce said:
I have a question for you captain mike, we are new at rving and we have a 29' travel trailer. what do different springs on my truck have to do with the swaying of the trailer?
mort
What type of truck do you have? 1/2, 3/4, or 1 ton? Is your trailer a pull behind? If it is a pull behind and you have something bigger than a 1/2 ton, my opinion is that you get a load distribution hitch. This stops the sway and picks up the back of the truck a bit. If you have a fifth wheel or a slide in camper, the super springs are the ticket.
Too much sway is not only uncomfotable, it can be very dangerous.
Captain Mike Baker said:
mort and joyce said:
I have a question for you captain mike, we are new at rving and we have a 29' travel trailer. what do different springs on my truck have to do with the swaying of the trailer?
mort
I have a dodge ram 1500 4x4 and have a 29' travel trailer

Captain Mike Baker said:
What type of truck do you have? 1/2, 3/4, or 1 ton? Is your trailer a pull behind? If it is a pull behind and you have something bigger than a 1/2 ton, my opinion is that you get a load distribution hitch. This stops the sway and picks up the back of the truck a bit. If you have a fifth wheel or a slide in camper, the super springs are the ticket.
Too much sway is not only uncomfotable, it can be very dangerous.
Captain Mike Baker said:
mort and joyce said:
I have a question for you captain mike, we are new at rving and we have a 29' travel trailer. what do different springs on my truck have to do with the swaying of the trailer?
mort
The easiest way to describe a Load equalizing hitch.is to imagine extending the frame of your towing vehicle with spring steel under the tongue of your trailer, basically allowing the frames to over-lap each other. A couple of years back Eaz-lift advertised towing a boat with a front-wheel drive Toronado with the rear wheels removed across America. It was an advertising gimmick for-sure, and it never really happened. but it did make a statement. The idea of adding over load springs instead of a an equalizing hitch to a truck pulling a travek trailer is NOT a good idea. Heavier tongue weight (500 lbs+) on the ball, displaces weight to the rear of the tow vehicle and the truck's steering will wander all over everywhere. This can be a real scary issue as unnaided tow capacity can be construed as a "man and his toy" thing, and quite honestly this has nothing to do with horsepower. I'd go one better then Capn Mike, if the trailer's GVW is more thean Class 2 (3500 GVW), you should be looking at use of an equalizing hitch, for anything less then a 1 ton truck. At the very least it'll greatly smooth out the ride.
Hey Ron, the trailer is abou 3000 lbs and I pull it a dodge 1500 4x4. I have stableizer bars for it but when I drop the hitch to raise the rear to keep it from dragging the ground the stableizer bars are real low to the ground
mort
Ron Buckner said:
The easiest way to describe a Load equalizing hitch.is to imagine extending the frame of your towing vehicle with spring steel under the tongue of your trailer, basically allowing the frames to over-lap each other. A couple of years back Eaz-lift advertised towing a boat with a front-wheel drive Toronado with the rear wheels removed across America. It was an advertising gimmick for-sure, and it never really happened. but it did make a statement. The idea of adding over load springs instead of a an equalizing hitch to a truck pulling a travek trailer is NOT a good idea. Heavier tongue weight (500 lbs+) on the ball, displaces weight to the rear of the tow vehicle and the truck's steering will wander all over everywhere. This can be a real scary issue as unnaided tow capacity can be construed as a "man and his toy" thing, and quite honestly this has nothing to do with horsepower. I'd go one better then Capn Mike, if the trailer's GVW is more thean Class 2 (3500 GVW), you should be looking at use of an equalizing hitch, for anything less then a 1 ton truck. At the very least it'll greatly smooth out the ride.
When your all set up and ready to go. The tongue of the trailer should be level (that is the distance from the ground to the top of the frame should be the same at the ball, and at the rear bumper of the trailer. If its not, then the hitch ball height is incorrect. This can be a BIG problem for 4wd trucks because most recievers are stuck up high under the bumper for ground clearence when your 4 wheeling, and if the drop hitch supplied isn't low enough, then the weighting gets all screwed up. Also, most 4wd trucks are set up with massive shock travel so they can maintain traction on off road terrain, this means tongue weight from a trailer can play havoc with weighting. Keeping the rear end higher to keep from dragging, and instead dragging at the bars tells me your trailer is probably set up for highway towing. You might want to consider the possibility of flipping your axles
Ron is correct on the springs for the tow vehicle and correct about the equalizing hitch when you have a pull behind, however, I believe a truck with a large fifth wheel is a different matter.
mort and joyce said:
Hey Ron, the trailer is abou 3000 lbs and I pull it a dodge 1500 4x4. I have stableizer bars for it but when I drop the hitch to raise the rear to keep it from dragging the ground the stableizer bars are real low to the ground
mort
Ron Buckner said:
The easiest way to describe a Load equalizing hitch.is to imagine extending the frame of your towing vehicle with spring steel under the tongue of your trailer, basically allowing the frames to over-lap each other. A couple of years back Eaz-lift advertised towing a boat with a front-wheel drive Toronado with the rear wheels removed across America. It was an advertising gimmick for-sure, and it never really happened. but it did make a statement. The idea of adding over load springs instead of a an equalizing hitch to a truck pulling a travek trailer is NOT a good idea. Heavier tongue weight (500 lbs+) on the ball, displaces weight to the rear of the tow vehicle and the truck's steering will wander all over everywhere. This can be a real scary issue as unnaided tow capacity can be construed as a "man and his toy" thing, and quite honestly this has nothing to do with horsepower. I'd go one better then Capn Mike, if the trailer's GVW is more thean Class 2 (3500 GVW), you should be looking at use of an equalizing hitch, for anything less then a 1 ton truck. At the very least it'll greatly smooth out the ride.
ok thanks for the information I will change the hight of my hitch and try that mort
Ron Buckner said:
When your all set up and ready to go. The tongue of the trailer should be level (that is the distance from the ground to the top of the frame should be the same at the ball, and at the rear bumper of the trailer. If its not, then the hitch ball height is incorrect. This can be a BIG problem for 4wd trucks because most recievers are stuck up high under the bumper for ground clearence when your 4 wheeling, and if the drop hitch supplied isn't low enough, then the weighting gets all screwed up. Also, most 4wd trucks are set up with massive shock travel so they can maintain traction on off road terrain, this means tongue weight from a trailer can play havoc with weighting. Keeping the rear end higher to keep from dragging, and instead dragging at the bars tells me your trailer is probably set up for highway towing. You might want to consider the possibility of flipping your axles
Yup, 5th wheel is an entirely different beast, the weighting should be set up just forward of the rear axle and if you have a spring flex where the rear axles move front because of spring ripple you HAVE to have over-loads
Captain Mike Baker said:
Ron is correct on the springs for the tow vehicle and correct about the equalizing hitch when you have a pull behind, however, I believe a truck with a large fifth wheel is a different matter.
mort and joyce said:
Hey Ron, the trailer is abou 3000 lbs and I pull it a dodge 1500 4x4. I have stableizer bars for it but when I drop the hitch to raise the rear to keep it from dragging the ground the stableizer bars are real low to the ground
mort
Ron Buckner said:
The easiest way to describe a Load equalizing hitch.is to imagine extending the frame of your towing vehicle with spring steel under the tongue of your trailer, basically allowing the frames to over-lap each other. A couple of years back Eaz-lift advertised towing a boat with a front-wheel drive Toronado with the rear wheels removed across America. It was an advertising gimmick for-sure, and it never really happened. but it did make a statement. The idea of adding over load springs instead of a an equalizing hitch to a truck pulling a travek trailer is NOT a good idea. Heavier tongue weight (500 lbs+) on the ball, displaces weight to the rear of the tow vehicle and the truck's steering will wander all over everywhere. This can be a real scary issue as unnaided tow capacity can be construed as a "man and his toy" thing, and quite honestly this has nothing to do with horsepower. I'd go one better then Capn Mike, if the trailer's GVW is more thean Class 2 (3500 GVW), you should be looking at use of an equalizing hitch, for anything less then a 1 ton truck. At the very least it'll greatly smooth out the ride.

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